Memories of a geisha at Milan Fashion Week went!

October 04, 2012 13:40
Memories of a geisha at Milan Fashion Week went!

Fashion shows are always a difficult thing, both for the people who judge and decide what's good and also for those who are being judged. Several catwalks, displays of exquisite and expensive clothing, many of which never make it to the high street stores. Italian fashion market is extremely popular for its 'Haute Couture' with deep necks, cleavage and lots of thighs but this time there was great influence of the Japanese kimono style garments, and tunics with the Nippon touch.

But this is not only the bright side but also the dull side of the story. China, the major target for the Italian fashion trends would likely distance itself from the latest trend in Italy, which is obviously reminiscent of their arch enemy. Very few of Shanghai and Beijing's glass windows would be shielding the kimono-ish fashion apparel this year.
For a brief round up on the show and how they fared;

PRADA

Fashion1

Metallic looking socks are not particularly feminish, but give them to the eccentric genius Miuccia Prada, and you have the most trendy looking socks never more apt for women. Embellish them with the flat sandals that remind you of the geisha. The dress it self seemed to be a tunic form slightly altered from the kimonos. The Japanese culture of large flowers, furs, shades and bags stands out in the dresses and the fashion accessories. Fashion is going to make a U-Turn after this for sure.

A trendy touch without losing the traditional Japanese feel, 4/5.

ETRO

Fashion2

Japanesey tunic-like garments; gypsy-girl touch, urban-chic culotte suits; ancient Greek one-shouldered gowns; poncho-Mexicanish handkerchief tops; and Indian evening-wear drapes… hope I have not forgotten a lot. Dresses of every shape and size, this was tougher than my high school geometry for the number of shapes was too high. Etro however had not forgotten his trademarks, the prints.  Via Piranesi cool poppy stage stood out more than the garments from Veronica Etro which oftentimes felt like they were overworked.

You wouldn't mind looking away a few times. 2/5.

MOSCHINO

Fashion3

Mochismo takes you back to the sixties and never loses the beautiful, classic dress and trouser style. Boxy shapes, beehives, metallic minidresses, a lot of black and white generally appeal to only a very small group of people but the way Mochismo blends them with the slick stripes and plastic flowers, very few would be left unpleased unless plain elegant styles are a complete no-no for you.

Street style blended elegantly with the Italian styles: 3/5

ERMANNO SCERVINO

Fashion4

Seems like there is a special penchant towards the lower end of the spectrum with the number of yellows and oranges greatly dominating the contrasting plain whites. Fringed shirts, laser cut dresses, suede skirts, flashing thighs, and lots of side- boob shows.  Perfect club outfits to drop the bass. It was not overdone though, retaining the “bo” of the "boho-chic" that Scervino tried to achieve. You wonder why the dresses don't fall off though they loosely cling on to you.

Capri Sun effect doesn't really speak out loud to the crowd. 2/5.

MISSONI

Fashion5

Wonder if you are watching anime from Japan live? Missoni almost gets you there. Highly enjoyable to the stylists and accessories team. Futuristic looks with space visors, prominent and extremely bright lipstick and rough crystal ruffs and bracelets were notable. The shoes with the minimalistic and delicate appearance completed the looks. Optical illusion like checkered tops and cut-vests glimmering as the models walked the ramp could hypnotize or rather confuse the crowds.

Something about these dresses keeps your eyes on them, 3/5.

FERRAGAMO

/Fashion6

Old faces, teenage physiques and the nostalgia from the 90s. Bags that are a style statement, boots that cover your legs to the thighs whilst undoing the legs exposed by the mini skirts. These clothes with the leather like appearance bring a disappointment to the brand as they try to bank on the youthful looks to grab onto the audience. 2/5.

BOTTEGA VENETA

Fashion7

In very few shows you want the models to walk painfully slow, like the ultra slow motion during the dramatic scenes in a movie. This is one of them. Bringing back the 70's, the saxophone was a great addition to the show. No categories could be made out, and the defiance had a charm to it but not a hint of arrogance. The butterflies, pansies and tulips were classic ladylike motifs. The and the shapes were Celibate dresses, yet with the tantalizing factors like unbuttoned tops and snakeskin accessories. Tomas Maier won the show at Milan with his masterful detail-rich clothes without compromising on the style and theme. A minor masterpiece. 5/5

JIL SANDER

Fashion8

Sophisticated minimalism, so minimalistic that many accessories are given a miss. Sander introduced the simplicity to the brand Uniqlo. Twin tone boots rising beyond the ankle compliment the dresses.  Pinafore dresses worn on tulip skirts and loose jackets with wide, raglan sleeves were interesting, despite being painfully simple. This simplicity is far from being austere though, the trademark of Sander probably.

If you wouldn't mind shelling money for simplicity. 3/5

MAXMARA

Fashion9

The most bohemian fashion collection was MaxMara collection. As a rule of the thumb, when you flaunt the waistline to make it more curvy, the clothing is generally taut at the curves. Christopher Bailey and others how ever bent the rules and made it loose at the waist and the dress tapered beneath the waist. Above the waist too the clothing appears slouchy making the person look taller. That said, the dresses were a treat to watch and wear, a rare combination. Nearly everything was epauletted; loose camel blazers rolled up to T-shirt length, a skirt-long, action-pleated olive safari shirt, and satin, slouchy-backed, knee-length jumpsuits. The back line went as low as the end of the spine in most dresses. Not the kind of office-wear you are looking for but the perfect style statement, with the MaxMara looks apparent on the clothes.

The safari style has been adopted to suit urban needs. 3/5.

MARNI

Fashion10

Plains and prints were used equally, lower number of accessories and the designer note with the elegance of Zadie Smith was all the people had with Marni's show at the fashion week. Slightly inflated jackets, skirts and dresses, crisp, folding detailing, broad sleeves and deep V necklines brought the Japanese in the clothes out. The shoes were just knockouts.

The dresses did little to accentuate the curves. 3/5

(AW- Anil)

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